There are many things to consider when choosing a watch. This guide is for helping beginners to watch collecting understand the terms used in watches, as well as the pros and cons of different attributes.

TYPES OF MOVEMENTS

The movement in a watch is the internal mechanism that keeps time. There are numerous ways of doing this. The most common are Mechanical or Quartz.

Mechanical: Mechanical watches are powered by an internally wound spring. This spring needs to be wound daily by twisting the crown. An automatic watch has an internal mechanism that winds the spring through kinetic energy of wearing the watch. Mechanical watches have a smooth gliding seconds hand without the audible ticking sound.

Quartz: Quartz watches are typically powered by a battery or rechargeable solar cell. This power is used to energize a small quartz crystal. The quartz then vibrates at a rate of 32,768 vibrations per second. Circuitry inside counts these vibrations and uses that data to engage a stepper motor, producing the audible and visual ticking of the seconds hand.

TYPES OF CRYSTAL:

The crystal is the clear protective cover over top of the dial.

Acrylic: Typical for watches of the 1960s and earlier, but has been making a comeback. Acrylic is a form of plastic. It tends to scratch and scuff easily, but is just as easy to restore.

Mineral Glass: Found on a majority of all watches. Mineral glass is the middle ground between scratch resistant and economical. It’s generally easier to replace rather than restore once scratched.

Sapphire: Considered to be the premium material. Sapphire is exceptionally difficult to scratch or scuff, ranking just below diamond on the Mohs scale. It tends to cost more than mineral glass.

Watch Measurements:

Diameter: The Measurement across the watch case typically excluding the crown.

Lug Width: The space between the ends of the watch, where the strap or bracelet attaches.

Lug to Lug: The length of the watch from the tip of one lug to the tip of the opposing lug.

WATER RESISTANCE RATINGS:

Waterproof: Typically found on vintage watches and should at best be considered only splash resistant.

30meter: Sometimes written as 3bar, is generally safe for hand washing, light splashing.

50meter: Sometimes written as 5bar. Generally safe in wet conditions but shouldn’t be submerged.

100meter: Sometimes written as 10bar. This is the basic level for general water activities. Swimming, snorkeling etc.

Anything 200m or 20bar or more is considered safe for diving. As with anything, there’s always exceptions to the rules. Things like water temperature and salt density can affect your watch’s water resistance. As well as age and condition. Never attempt to operate a chronograph, set the time or date in a wet environment.